Afghan Church, Colaba, Mumbai
Afghan Memorial Church Is A Treasure
The Afghan Church in Colaba, Mumbai is also called as the St John Evangelist Church. It’s been a landmark for 200 Years…
You Can Watch It
Or Listen to It
Or Read it!
I have made plans to visit this church so many times but it always seems to be closed! So I had to strategically plan my visit on a Sunday morning. I think I can say, it was worth it.
The Afghan Memorial Church sits at the tip of Bombay, in the heart of the cantonment area.
Afghan Church is a rather strange name for the church, isn’t it? The name has something to do with its past.
This church was built in the 1840s, to remember all the British soldiers who went down in the First Anglo Afghan War.
By building this landmark, they made it a pioneer of the famous Bombay Gothic. Bombay Gothic dominates the oval maidan front of the city. The CST station, the Rajabai Tower and the Bombay High Court are some buildings that have come to define Bombay. And it sounds so vague when I say that it all began here at the Afghan Church.
The History of Afghan Church
The British decided to build a church in Bombay to remember their fallen brothers. Most of these soldiers might have been from Bombay.
They decided to take a break from Classical architecture that had dominated the city previously. The Architectural Society of Oxford submitted plans. Sir George Gilbert Scott submitted his designs as well. Despite his designs being the best, they were uneconomical. At that time, money was still a rare commodity.
A water works engineer Henry Conybeare, submitted his work. His designs were influenced by Sir Scott but had a better Indian and economical twist to them.
Further they could make use of local materials to build the church.
Where Did the Funds Come From
The government gave Rs.30,000 which was far lesser than what was initially promised. They also sold an incomplete church and got Rs.15,000. Private contributions totalled up to Rs.25,000 with Sir Bartle Frere (the future Governor) gave Rs.500 and Sir Cowasjee Jehangir ‘Readymoney’ gave Rs.7,500.
And ultimately for the tall spire, the government gave Rs.33,000.
It can be said that the Afghan Memorial Church was a way for the ‘Anglo Indians’ to pay their respects.
People Behind Afghan Church
After Henry Conybeare designed the church, he asked two other prominent Britishers to help with the details.
William Wailes, was an expert in stained glass. He designed and imported for the first time, stained glass from England. Some of this old glass still shines inside the church. Brightening up the names of soldiers who perished.
William Butterfield, had previously worked with Mr.Wailes. He designed railings, benches, seats, choir stalls and the entrance screen.
The ironwork was done by JJ School of Arts, Bombay.
Finally 11 years later the church was complete, albeit without its spire. In 1865, they decided to make it a landmark not just for people on land but at sea as well.
So when a ship came from Britain it first saw the western front of Bombay. To make this strange coconut tree clad humid landscape more like home, the officials decided that the church would be a familiar sight.
Thus in 1865 they built a spire here. A law was passed which said that no tall structure would be built on the western side of the church. And I believe that the spire can still be seen from Marine Drive on a clear day!
The Architecture
As I mentioned before, the Afghan Memorial church is more than a landmark. It’s a pioneer in architecture and was a way to make incoming ships feel more at home. It was this thought that gave the western edge of Bombay, also called Backbay, all the gothic administrative buildings.
The Church is built in an Early Gothic style but in the 19th century. To fit the humid weather, they used the locally available Kurla and Porbundar stone for the first time. This stone was later commonly used in all the neo-gothic structures in Bombay.
Buttresses have been concealed on either side. And the tall spire, is like an indelible mark.
Some Exciting Things I Found
As you step in, glance up at the ceiling. It’s made up of timber, all polished in a rich brown shade. The walls, in contrast, are a beautiful light cream. Right ahead, is a beautiful lancet window with a creative rose window at its head. Around the altar, are the names of the numerous Generals, Lieutenant and Soldiers who died during the War.
Around the entrance are names of soldiers who gave up their lives in subsequent wars, leading up to the First World War.
The most exciting of the lot, are the dark tall glass cases on the wall to your right as you enter in. It took me a while to adjust and see what they held inside. And I was shocked to find flags or maybe they were banners belonging to the regiments.
The flags seemed to be in a terrible state. And the plaque commemorating these flags has faded away. It pains me it say that this is history lost. However one plaque still bore faded words that read ‘Bombay Native Army’.
I was really excited to see these flags. All I can hope for is that someone restores them soon. If you know someone who might help do that, please comment below or contact me on editor@giglee.in.
Here are the timings for Afghan Church, Colaba, Mumbai:
Sundays only, from 8 to 12:30
Hope you visit the Afghan Church in Colaba, Mumbai. Have a great day. See you next Friday…..
Till then, here are a couple of other things to see in Bombay
The 300 Year Old St Thomas Cathedral
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